What shoes should I wear when I train?

Humans evolved, like all other animals, to walk without shoes. But as we discovered in the section about foot evolution, the use of the foot for locomotion became central to human survival. Humans searching for food began walking longer distances, consequently exposing their feet to sharp objects and extreme temperatures. So of course, it wasn’t long until they figured out how to wrap their feet for protection.

The first shoes were made from sagebrush bark and are believed to have been made in about 8000 BC. The first leather shoes were discovered in Armenia and have been radiocarbon dated to about 3500 BC. Since then, what we wear on our feet has taken on many forms, from useful to decorative, and from simple to complex. You can buy dollar-store sandals or spend millions on a pair of diamond and gold high-heeled shoes.

Advancements in manufacturing techniques and an expanding global shoe industry are responsible for $39.15 billion of retail sales in 2021 in the U.S. alone.  Athletic footwear accounted for $14.5 billion in revenue in 2022. Generally, non-athletic shoes make up around 66% of total shoe sales. The remaining share of the market in 2022 was in athletic shoes. 

The Rise of Athletic Shoes

Modern running shoes had their beginnings in 1865 when spikes were attached to leather dress shoes. The first Olympic games highlighted the need for a better athletic shoe. Spalding & Bros. patented a lighter shoe with spikes in 1921. Rubber-soled shoes with canvas uppers also emerged in the 1920s. The idea that shoes needed arch support came about in 1906. The first athletic shoe specifically for women came onto the scene in 1982.

Modern Shoe Terminology

These are the primary components of a shoe. Variations exist based on different shoe styles, designs, and construction methods. 

Upper - All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole.

Vamp - The section of the upper that covers the front of the foot above the metatarsals and toes.

Quarter - The back half of the upper.  It begins where the vamp ends.

Foxing - Invisible, but this small piece of material connects the upper to the sole.

Heel Counter - Supportive material in the back of the shoe that stabilizes and tightens the heel area and shapes around the Achilles tendons.

Toecap - The exterior portion of the shoe that encloses the toes.

Collar - Attaches to the upper by the foot entry point.

Collar Lining - A soft piece of material covering the collar's interior. It can reduce blisters and irritation at the heel.

Tongue - Looks like a tongue, attached to the upper, covering the mid-foot.

Insole - The part of the shoe that your foot touches.

Midsole - Connects the outsole to the insole and upper. Can cushion or absorb shock from the ground.

Outsole - The part of the shoe that touches the ground.

Toe Box - The open space on the interior of the shoe where your toes are.

Toe Cap - The exterior of the shoe above the Toe Box.

Specialized Shoes 

Running - Highly cushioned to absorb shock. Designed for forward motion. Designs vary to provide more cushion, stability or motion control. Typically has 10-12 mm heel drop due to cushioning in this area.

Barefoot/Minimalist - Promotes forefoot strike vs. heel strike which lessens compressive loads on lower limbs. Typically without a heel drop or heel drop less than 8mm.

Trail - For off-road running. Has a deeper tread pattern and provides more stability.

Cross Trainers - Designed for a variety of sports and, as a result, do not perform as well for any particular activity as a more specialized shoe. Can have protection for rope climbs. Not designed for long runs.

Walking shoes - Provide more arch support, shock absorption, and smooth tread. Typically will have a stable heel counter to improve heel-to-toe gait pattern.

Court - Solid tread pattern. Provide stability in all directions. Some have higher upper to improve ankle stability during jumping and landing.

Cleats - Provide better traction on grass or turf. Cleats may be concentrated in one or more areas of the sole, depending on the sport.

Hiking - Similar to walking shoes, but with deeper tread. Most have high upper to provide ankle stability in uneven terrain.

Weightlifting - Stable outsoles and elevated heels to provide a larger heel to sit into when squatting, performing lower body exercises, and Olympic lifts.

Tips when buying shoes in person:

• Shop at a store that specializes in the sport you participate in.
• Your feet swell throughout the day. Try on shoes later in the day.
• Wear the same type of sock you plan to wear during that activity.
• Make sure the heel counter grips your heel and holds it in place.
• Make sure you have at least half an inch between your longest toe and the tip of the shoe.
• The toe box should be wide enough that you can splay and wiggle your toes.
• When trying on shoes, walk on different surfaces to make sure they are comfortable.
• Tighten the laces of the shoe you are trying on.
• Try on both shoes. Left and Right.
• Don’t buy used shoes or ones that may have been sitting for a long time. Materials can break down or be misshapen.

Tips for buying shoes online:

• Popular brands for cross training are not typically available in brick-and-mortar stores. When buying online, read reviews and comments about size, fit, and comfort.
• Measure your foot length and width at the end of the day and find the corresponding size in a conversion chart on the seller's website.
• Buy from familiar brands if you know how they fit you.
• Check return policies in case you need to return them.

How shoes change your feet

What we put on our feet has a direct impact on how our feet function and feel. A friend related an example of this. She has a friend who for years only wore high heels. The result was a permanently shortened Achilles tendon. The situation became so bad that she could not wear regular shoes and had to walk on her toes. The necessary surgery to lengthen her Achilles was very expensive – in the 10s of thousands of dollars. Obviously, this is an extreme case but lets look at some common ways shoes change our feet.

There is no such thing as “breaking in” a shoe. This just means that the shoe is “breaking” your foot in. Your foot will adapt and change to fit the shoe you wear. Do you cram your toes into the toe box on those dress shoes, forcing them together? If you’re susceptible, this can cause bunions. Are you swimming in those work boots? You may get blisters. Toenails may also take a beating in the wrong size shoe, causing bruising and fungus under the nail. 

Running in shoes that have a lot of cushion in the heel can encourage higher forces during heel strike, effectively altering your running gait.

Habitually wearing orthotics or shoes with a lot of arch support can weaken the plantar fascia. 

Here are some other problems that may arise:

• Hammer Toe – Caused by toes that are bent in the center of the toe joint, crossed, or pointed in an unusual direction.
• Blisters – Formed by friction and contact between the shoe and foot.
• Bunions – Boney growth on the big toe joint that is caused by the pushing inward of the big toe by the shoe. Common in pointed shoes or shoes with a narrow toe box.
• Calluses and Corns -  Calluses form on the soles and corn form on the tops, sides, and in between toes.
• Plantar Fasciitis – The plantar fascia become inflamed or torn. Can be caused by transitioning from high arch support to barefoot, etc.
• Fungal and In-grown Toenails - Toenails may also take a beating in the wrong size shoe, causing bruising, separation, and fungus under the nail.
• Peripheral Neuropathy – Diabetic neuropathy can make it impossible for people to feel that they have sores forming.
• Athlete's foot – Tight shoes leave little room for air circulation, leaving the environment in the shoe right for infections.
• Alignment and Posture – Ill fitting shoes can affect Gait, and posture, possibly causing hip and back pain.

What makes a good Cross Training shoe?

Cross Training shoes are generalists. Capable of any type of workout, but not perfect at any. 

• “Medium” heel-to-toe drop - This helps an athlete maintain proper torso position and squat depth while weightlifting. Like with specialized weightlifting shoes, the raised heel makes foot dorsiflexion less acute while squatting, easing possible ankle mobility restrictions. With no heel-to-toe drop, as with a minimalist shoe, mobility restrictions at the ankle may cause the athlete to lean forward in an attempt to squat below parallel. In contrast, a running shoe typically has a high heel drop of 8mm. Although this amount of drop may help with ankle mobility issues, running shoes are designed to propel the body forward, not to keep the foot stable. The drop in a cross training shoe makes it possible to lift and run effectively. But it is not optimum for either.

• “Medium” flexibility and firmness in the sole - Running shoes tend to have a lot of cushion in the heel and a lot of flexibility to enable movement of the entire foot during long runs. Weightlifting shoes have very little flexibility, so they support proper position during lifts. A good cross training shoe falls somewhere in between. It keeps you stable while lifting weight, yet remains flexible enough for light running.

• Durability - Cross training is hard on shoes. The wide variety of movements combined with the rigor associated with CrossFit-style workouts will quickly wear down a shoe. I’ve seen running shoes fall to the floor in pieces during a rope climb. A lot of CrossFit shoes have special protection for rope climbs, wall walks, and box jumps.

• Lightweight. No one wants to workout with bricks on their feet. Good training shoes are lightweight while providing support and durability.

• Lateral Support. You’ll change direction a lot during the typical WOD. You want a shoe with adequate outer support keeping that side-to-side movement to a minimum. Look for extra support around the metatarsals.

What are the advantages of Minimalist Shoes?

• No Heel-Toe Drop: Most shoes have an elevated heel, which shifts your center of mass forward. This forces you to adjust with your ankles, knees, hips, and back. Where you will feel the stress depends on which one of these joints is least supported by your muscles, ligaments, and tendons. Barefoot (or “minimalist” ) shoes do not elevate the heel. This can keep the body in a neutral alignment and keeps the body weight centered over the feet.
• Thin (but protective), Flexible Soles: Barefoot shoes have a thin yet protective sole, so you can safely FEEL to ground and give your brain the feedback needed to make dynamic postural changes. 
• Wider, Foot-Shaped Toe Box: In the same way spreading your fingers provides balance doing pushups, spreading your toes provides you with better balance while you stand, walk or run. Barefoot shoes feature a wider toe box, which gives your toes the freedom to spread out for better balance, stability, and posture. 

Here is some information to help you decide which brand of shoe is right for you. New shoe brands pop up all of the time, but these are some common ones.